Pamir Highway by Motorcycle: Route, Permits and Tips

The route: M41 from Dushanbe to Osh

The Pamir Highway’s official name is the M41. It was built between 1931 and 1934 to move troops into the remote region, and it links Dushanbe in Tajikistan with Osh in Kyrgyzstan. The main stops:

• Dushanbe: the capital and starting point, and your last chance for any major shopping
• Khorog: the main town of the Pamir region, on the Panj
• Wakhan Valley: a popular alternative to the main route, right on the Afghan border, with views of the Hindu Kush
• Murghab: a high plateau at over 3,600 metres
• Ak-Baital Pass: at 4,655 metres, the highest point of the route
• Lake Karakul and the border crossing into Kyrgyzstan, then on to Osh

Permits: visa and GBAO permit

For the Pamir, in addition to permission to enter Tajikistan, you need a separate permit for the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region – the so-called GBAO permit. It covers Khorog, Murghab, the Wakhan Valley, Lake Karakul and large parts of the Pamir Highway.

If you need an e-visa, you can apply for the GBAO permit at the same time. Allow plenty of time – processing sometimes takes much longer than stated. The rules and fees change regularly, so check the latest information on Tajikistan’s official e-visa portal (evisa.tj).

Print several copies of the permit: checkpoints often keep a copy. At the border you’ll be issued a temporary import permit for the motorcycle; keep your passport, vehicle registration certificate and permit within easy reach at all times.

Altitude: for rider and motorcycle

A large part of the route lies above 3,500 metres. Take the first days of climbing deliberately slowly, drink plenty and watch for symptoms of altitude sickness such as headaches, nausea or dizziness. If you feel unwell, don’t keep climbing – go back down.

Your motorcycle feels the altitude too: power drops noticeably, and carburettor engines often run too rich unless they’re adjusted. Modern fuel-injected engines cope better.

Road surface and fuel

Don’t expect tarmac all the way. The surface switches between old asphalt with deep potholes, corrugations, gravel and sand. In the Wakhan Valley there are deep sand sections and water crossings that, after the snowmelt, can be much higher in the afternoon than in the morning.

Petrol stations are few and far between, and fuel quality varies. Between Khorog and Murghab there are several hundred kilometres where you shouldn’t count on finding a petrol station. An auxiliary tank or a spare fuel can is therefore part of the basic kit.

Best time to go

The season for motorcyclists runs from roughly June to September. Before and after that, the high passes may be snowed in. Even in high summer it can snow above 4,000 metres – always pack warm clothing.

Kit: tough beats pretty

• Tyres with an off-road tread that will last the whole route, plus spare inner tubes or a puncture repair kit
• Tools, spare clutch and brake levers, an air filter and oil
• Offline maps and GPS tracks – there’s often no mobile signal in the highlands
• Warm layers, good rain gear and sun protection
• Cash in small notes, and copies of all your documents

From the Pamir to the Balkans

The Pamir Highway is a journey you’ll never forget. But you don’t have to travel to Central Asia to experience real adventure on two wheels. Gravel, wide-open spaces and hospitality are waiting in the mountains of Bosnia too – just two days’ ride from home.

If you’re planning the Pamir or another far-flung destination, feel free to get in touch with Mato: he has been organising tailor-made on- and off-road tours worldwide for years. And if you’d rather start closer to home, the Bosnia Marathon is the perfect way in.

Frequently asked questions